Uchuck Déjà Vu

Story and photos by Maggie Wouterlout

Our voyage on the Uchuck in July 2023 brought back decades-old memories for our group of 11 friends.  We had come to the west coast as part of an annual kayaking trip that doubles as a reunion of former tree planters, contractors, and camp cooks. Our home bases are now scattered across British Columbia but every year we choose areas around Vancouver Island for a week of paddling, exploring, storytelling and considerable food consumption.

We chose the Gold River area because we had heard of the paddling potential and seen many reviews for cave exploration and hiking. Another huge draw was the possibility to board the Uchuck for the day and experience a working vessel servicing the small communities dotting the central coast. Some of us had boarded it many years before when departing for remote work camps in the 1980s and 90s.

Our first clue that it was going to be a special day was the bubbled sendoff from the dock. “It’s only on wind-free days that passengers get bubbles!”, joked the friendly office manager. Passing the logbooms in the harbour we noted the slopes bordering the Muchalat Inlet were shrouded in mist.  The experiences working in that region came flooding back: battling the wind and rain, of slipping on crusty work clothes and still damp work boots, the cramped hands, the countless cups of coffee while taking refuge under tarps on the cut blocks. There were tales of crazy workmates, the bear and cougar encounters, the wrap parties, the delicious camp food piled on plates after a day out there.  There were as many hghs as there were lows in such work.

As we advanced down the inlet, we scanned the old logging cut blocks for recognizable features and checked map apps on our phones trying to find the blocks that we’d re-planted so many years earlier. 

Some things had changed in the ensuing years – there many more fish farms than before.  Luckily the boat stopped at a couple of them to unload supplies giving us a glimpse of life and work in that industry.  We gained an appreciation of how self-sufficient workers need to be in this remote part of the Island.

Once the Uchuck left Muchalat Inlet and rounded Camel Rock we craned our necks and took mental notes of good kayaking spots where the coastline offered an open area wide enough to beach the boats and shelter from the wind. Galiano Bay looked especially promising. From the railing we marveled at the white jellyfish floating through gently waving seaweed. Purple and orange starfish clung to the rocks at low tide and curious seals bobbed their heads out to watch us pass. Although we craned our necks to spot any whales, that marvel would have to wait until the next day when we encountered a pod of orcas in our kayaks.

The crew on board the Uchuck were exceptionally friendly and fielded our many questions with patience and humour. We received a lot more information from them about the wildlife and fishing possibilities in the various neighbouring inlets. We also learned more about caving in the area after having already explored the fascinating Upana caves network.

When our day came to a close and the Uchuck docked again in Gold River we were in for one last charming surprise. As we headed down the gangplank the crew had lined up at the bottom to give us a sendoff fit for visiting dignitaries.  A very classy farewell indeed!

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